When we started thinking of visiting our rellies in Ireland, we also planned to do a big walk. Such a walk was written about by Paddy Dillon and titled the Irish Coast to Coast. So in the sunny month of June 2018, we will commence our walk.
The walk planed covered over 650kms but is not aligned with any Camino. The following was the initial plan.
1. Wicklow Way
2. South Leinster Way
3. East Munster Way
4. The Blackwater (Avondhu) Way
5. The Blackwater (Duhallow) Way
6. The Kerry Way
However, time pressures combined with a few walking issues, meant that we stopped half way through the East Munster at Clonmel and bused over to Killarney. There we did a bit of the Kerry Way. Of the 650kms in the 6 walks, we covered around 330 kms with another 80kms on walks later.
I will go into a bit of detail of the walking as a few readers may find my observations interesting, but first some thoughts -
1. As you know, Linda and I have walked the Frances and the Portuguese Caminos so the distances were not a problem, However, unlike the Spain and Portuguese where there were plenty of towns on the walk etc, the various Irish walks were devoid of any services from when you left in the morning to when you got to your evening stop (with a few exceptions). This meant that comfort stops, food and water all had to be catered for while walking either over mountains, along forestry tracks or roads.
2. Due to a late winter and an early and hot spring, the hedges were mostly overgrown. This made road walking very dangerous with very little opportunities to get off the road and this took a lot of concentration.
3. The average distances between these towns was also problematic. There were few opportunities to walk shorter distances. The average of 24kms per day for the Wicklow included a 34 and a 36km day. So we found ourselves, getting taxied off the track and to accommodation and then back to the walk, thus breaking up the distances.
Having said the above, the walks are beautiful and if you are fit for the longer distances, the various walks will deliver.
So what follows is what actually happened to two pilgrims in Ireland.
1. Wicklow Way
2. South Leinster Way
3. East Munster Way
4. The Blackwater (Avondhu) Way
5. The Blackwater (Duhallow) Way
6. The Kerry Way
However, time pressures combined with a few walking issues, meant that we stopped half way through the East Munster at Clonmel and bused over to Killarney. There we did a bit of the Kerry Way. Of the 650kms in the 6 walks, we covered around 330 kms with another 80kms on walks later.
I will go into a bit of detail of the walking as a few readers may find my observations interesting, but first some thoughts -
1. As you know, Linda and I have walked the Frances and the Portuguese Caminos so the distances were not a problem, However, unlike the Spain and Portuguese where there were plenty of towns on the walk etc, the various Irish walks were devoid of any services from when you left in the morning to when you got to your evening stop (with a few exceptions). This meant that comfort stops, food and water all had to be catered for while walking either over mountains, along forestry tracks or roads.
2. Due to a late winter and an early and hot spring, the hedges were mostly overgrown. This made road walking very dangerous with very little opportunities to get off the road and this took a lot of concentration.
3. The average distances between these towns was also problematic. There were few opportunities to walk shorter distances. The average of 24kms per day for the Wicklow included a 34 and a 36km day. So we found ourselves, getting taxied off the track and to accommodation and then back to the walk, thus breaking up the distances.
Having said the above, the walks are beautiful and if you are fit for the longer distances, the various walks will deliver.
So what follows is what actually happened to two pilgrims in Ireland.
The trip was 2 months and was spent, walking/backpacking, a visit to Linda's extended family and driving a car.
The walking was a follows -
The walking was a follows -
We then spent 4 weeks driving around Ireland and Northern Ireland.
So in the map below, green is backpacking, yellow is bus, blue is train and red is driving
So in the map below, green is backpacking, yellow is bus, blue is train and red is driving
Dublin
We arrived in Dublin after the now all too familiar long haul flight. At first appearances, Dublin was not what we expected, but in a short time we grew to love the place, the people and the history. We were staying in the Dublin Inn, an older establishment in Talbot Street. It was clean friendly and close to the centre of town , the Needle and the River.. On the way into the hotel from the airport, we experienced our first and only ripoff by the taxi driver who charged us 35 euros and in reflection took us on a very long way to our lodgings.
We had a few days before the walk and were determined to see as much of Dublin as we could.
June 4 Monday
We walked around O’Connell Street, Henry Street, over the Halfpenny Bridge, along Bachelors’ Way, and down to Customs House, EPIC Genealogy Building. Saw the Harp Bridge and Dockland area. Making ourselves tired. Booked Hop-on-Hop-off for next day. It was a Bank Holiday today, so people were all about and saw a lot of folk returning from a fun run, picnics, games of hurling etc. It was very festive.
Later on we went to the Church Bar for a meal and learned that Handel had played the church organ and that Arthur Guinness was married there.
We had a few days before the walk and were determined to see as much of Dublin as we could.
June 4 Monday
We walked around O’Connell Street, Henry Street, over the Halfpenny Bridge, along Bachelors’ Way, and down to Customs House, EPIC Genealogy Building. Saw the Harp Bridge and Dockland area. Making ourselves tired. Booked Hop-on-Hop-off for next day. It was a Bank Holiday today, so people were all about and saw a lot of folk returning from a fun run, picnics, games of hurling etc. It was very festive.
Later on we went to the Church Bar for a meal and learned that Handel had played the church organ and that Arthur Guinness was married there.
Linda on the Halfpenny Bridge.
June 5 Tuesday
So Day 2 was the hop on hop off bus. We did a full circuit and then got off at the Guinness Store House, James Gate, and spent an enjoyable couple of hours. We then went to Christchurch Cathedral and saw the Dublinia exhibit which celebrated the Viking era of Dublin as well as the medieval era.
We really enjoyed our history commentary on the bus tour and scouted where we would spend the next day visiting. We caught up with John Matthews (a local Camino pilgrim) and he is leaving us with a more detailed map of the Wicklow walk. Dinner was at the Celt bar and was served by a young Aussie from Noosa. Beef and Guinness stew.
So Day 2 was the hop on hop off bus. We did a full circuit and then got off at the Guinness Store House, James Gate, and spent an enjoyable couple of hours. We then went to Christchurch Cathedral and saw the Dublinia exhibit which celebrated the Viking era of Dublin as well as the medieval era.
We really enjoyed our history commentary on the bus tour and scouted where we would spend the next day visiting. We caught up with John Matthews (a local Camino pilgrim) and he is leaving us with a more detailed map of the Wicklow walk. Dinner was at the Celt bar and was served by a young Aussie from Noosa. Beef and Guinness stew.
June 6 Wednesday
Today we visited Trinity University and saw the Book of Kells. St Stephen’s Green – beautiful park. Oscar Wilde’s houses in Westland Row and statue in Merrion Park.
.
1. Went into Natural History Museum to see the giant red deer.
2. Round Merrion Square – Georgian Houses with their colorful doors.
3. Grafton Street for shopping and to see Phil Lynott’s statue in Harry’s Lane and to see Molly Malone and enjoyed the singing of a young French lady busking near the statue.
4. Then on to the Temple Bar area for a drink. Met two lads from Northern Territory – Mitchell and Kyle – and found out State of Origin Game 1 was won by NSW 22-12!! Back to meet Jamie Brooking who did us a favour taking our large suitcase to his flat and we enjoyed dinner out at Tobby’s. The night we slept very soundly.
Today we visited Trinity University and saw the Book of Kells. St Stephen’s Green – beautiful park. Oscar Wilde’s houses in Westland Row and statue in Merrion Park.
.
1. Went into Natural History Museum to see the giant red deer.
2. Round Merrion Square – Georgian Houses with their colorful doors.
3. Grafton Street for shopping and to see Phil Lynott’s statue in Harry’s Lane and to see Molly Malone and enjoyed the singing of a young French lady busking near the statue.
4. Then on to the Temple Bar area for a drink. Met two lads from Northern Territory – Mitchell and Kyle – and found out State of Origin Game 1 was won by NSW 22-12!! Back to meet Jamie Brooking who did us a favour taking our large suitcase to his flat and we enjoyed dinner out at Tobby’s. The night we slept very soundly.
Trinity College
Oscar Wilde and St Stephen's Green
General shots of Dublin
The Statue of "The Man" himself - Phil Lynott and the legendary Molly Malone
And of course, When you think of Dublin, you think of James Joyce.
Wicklow Way
June 7 Thursday - The Wicklow Way commences - Dublin (Marlay Park) to Enniskerry
We left our hotel and took a bus out to Marlay Park and almost missed the stop where we had to start our walk on the Wicklow Way. Luckily a local man who was taking his small daughter for an outing , showed us the start. We were soon on our way out of the Dublin plains and into the Wicklow mountains.
Our fitness has fallen and we found that out quite early as we climbed out of Dublin into the Wicklow mountains. But it was a grand day and folk we met couldn't help commenting on it, It was a very warm to hot day and we found ourselves doing the steepest climb at midday! Finally we made it to Johhnie Fox’s Bar in Glencullen around 2pm where we had a drink with some Irish lads, Ken, John and Andrew who also had done a few caminos. Great stories were told over a Guinness or two. Our feet were tired so opted for a cab to our lodgings in Enniskerry Inn, some 5kms away.
The day could be summed up with beautiful scenery all over with lots of sheep and a few cows for company.
We left our hotel and took a bus out to Marlay Park and almost missed the stop where we had to start our walk on the Wicklow Way. Luckily a local man who was taking his small daughter for an outing , showed us the start. We were soon on our way out of the Dublin plains and into the Wicklow mountains.
Our fitness has fallen and we found that out quite early as we climbed out of Dublin into the Wicklow mountains. But it was a grand day and folk we met couldn't help commenting on it, It was a very warm to hot day and we found ourselves doing the steepest climb at midday! Finally we made it to Johhnie Fox’s Bar in Glencullen around 2pm where we had a drink with some Irish lads, Ken, John and Andrew who also had done a few caminos. Great stories were told over a Guinness or two. Our feet were tired so opted for a cab to our lodgings in Enniskerry Inn, some 5kms away.
The day could be summed up with beautiful scenery all over with lots of sheep and a few cows for company.
June 8 Friday - Enniskerry to Roundwood
After a good night’s sleep, it was breakfast at Poppies and cab back out to the path.We made a note to visit Powerscourt when we have a car. The scenery and deer spotting (4) were the highlights of a grueling day. Up and up and up and down and down and down. Feck Feck Feck( to be Irish).
If I thought St Jean to Ronscevalles was hard then I have just met its match. Not so high but unrelenting over 8 hours. 4 ascents and descents over 500m. Over 20kms. The scenery was spectacular as well, but no cow bells, just the lament of the sheep.
Later in the day, we literally staggered in to Roundwood, where we stayed at the Coach House. After we checked in to our room and showered, we fell into that great sleep of exhaustion and missed dinner. Our feet really complaining but Panadol saved the day!
After a good night’s sleep, it was breakfast at Poppies and cab back out to the path.We made a note to visit Powerscourt when we have a car. The scenery and deer spotting (4) were the highlights of a grueling day. Up and up and up and down and down and down. Feck Feck Feck( to be Irish).
If I thought St Jean to Ronscevalles was hard then I have just met its match. Not so high but unrelenting over 8 hours. 4 ascents and descents over 500m. Over 20kms. The scenery was spectacular as well, but no cow bells, just the lament of the sheep.
Later in the day, we literally staggered in to Roundwood, where we stayed at the Coach House. After we checked in to our room and showered, we fell into that great sleep of exhaustion and missed dinner. Our feet really complaining but Panadol saved the day!
June 9 Saturday - Rest Day in Roundwood
We managed to arrange a 2nd night in Roundwood, so spent the day lazing around town. We first woke up to the sound of clapping as a bike event went through the village. From Bray they came and off to Tinahely and beyond in either the 200kms or 100 km events. We looked for Martin Cummins (our bike-riding cousin) but did not see him.
The Coach House had great hospitality and we got to watch the Rugby win by the Wallabies over Ireland all the way from Australia. We also ate way too much.
I cant say enough about the staff in the Coach House in Roundwood, they were just wonderful.
We managed to arrange a 2nd night in Roundwood, so spent the day lazing around town. We first woke up to the sound of clapping as a bike event went through the village. From Bray they came and off to Tinahely and beyond in either the 200kms or 100 km events. We looked for Martin Cummins (our bike-riding cousin) but did not see him.
The Coach House had great hospitality and we got to watch the Rugby win by the Wallabies over Ireland all the way from Australia. We also ate way too much.
I cant say enough about the staff in the Coach House in Roundwood, they were just wonderful.
June 10 Sunday - Roundwood to Glendalough
It was meant to be a 3 hour cruise.... but seriously, around 14 kms of beautiful scenery and the hardest bit was the last 2 kms into the hostel. And yes we stayed at the Glendalough Youth Hostel and were made welcome.
Again we saw plenty of Sunday walkers. The way is great if you have a car, as they park in spots off the road and near the track and just walk for a couple of hours etc. We also saw other Wicklow walkers but 90% are walking back to Dublin.
The scenery was beautiful but more road walking and more people. It was a steep descent into Glendalough ( the place for St Kevin's monastery from the 7th century) which popped out of the walk just in time. Old ruins, the Inn/Hotel and Pub. A small brewery and gift shop. God’s Cottage. Visitors center. We thought the hostel was very pretty but ordinary and quite expensive given the lack of facilities and compared with the B&B's we have been staying at.!
It was meant to be a 3 hour cruise.... but seriously, around 14 kms of beautiful scenery and the hardest bit was the last 2 kms into the hostel. And yes we stayed at the Glendalough Youth Hostel and were made welcome.
Again we saw plenty of Sunday walkers. The way is great if you have a car, as they park in spots off the road and near the track and just walk for a couple of hours etc. We also saw other Wicklow walkers but 90% are walking back to Dublin.
The scenery was beautiful but more road walking and more people. It was a steep descent into Glendalough ( the place for St Kevin's monastery from the 7th century) which popped out of the walk just in time. Old ruins, the Inn/Hotel and Pub. A small brewery and gift shop. God’s Cottage. Visitors center. We thought the hostel was very pretty but ordinary and quite expensive given the lack of facilities and compared with the B&B's we have been staying at.!
June 11 Monday - Glendalough to Glenmalure
Last night I told Lyn a fib. I said tomorrow we are only walking 10 km down the valley as we retired for the night.
This morning I told her that it was 16 with a bit of climbing...... there was a distinct chill in the air!
So today we climbed for all the morning up to the saddle of Mullacor at 570m with track changes and a lot of forestry harvesting. There was a detour which cut 1 km off walk. Eventually, we left the forest and broke to the top and some boardwalk over boggy ground. The sheep were happy and we met some folk from Sydney, Canada, Belguim, France and the Danes from the other night at Roundwood.
I regress, at Glendalough they were having sheep dog trials, and we met a young lad giving a lamb some lessons for his turn later.
The sheep kept us company on our descent to Glenmalure. and we found the Glenmalure Lodge sitting right along the path and heaven all in one. We had a wonderful room and such friendly people. Great food - The Roast lamb was terrific and a great sleep.
Last night I told Lyn a fib. I said tomorrow we are only walking 10 km down the valley as we retired for the night.
This morning I told her that it was 16 with a bit of climbing...... there was a distinct chill in the air!
So today we climbed for all the morning up to the saddle of Mullacor at 570m with track changes and a lot of forestry harvesting. There was a detour which cut 1 km off walk. Eventually, we left the forest and broke to the top and some boardwalk over boggy ground. The sheep were happy and we met some folk from Sydney, Canada, Belguim, France and the Danes from the other night at Roundwood.
I regress, at Glendalough they were having sheep dog trials, and we met a young lad giving a lamb some lessons for his turn later.
The sheep kept us company on our descent to Glenmalure. and we found the Glenmalure Lodge sitting right along the path and heaven all in one. We had a wonderful room and such friendly people. Great food - The Roast lamb was terrific and a great sleep.
June 12 Tuesday - Glenmalure to Aughrim
Leisure day and a lovely brekkie. We had a walk around Glenmalure including a short walk to see old barracks (1798) . What a lovely village it is. However, I managed to upset the Heinkel scooter guys when I asked if they were the Vesper guys at breakfast.
After we packed, we chatted with Shannon from Texas, USA who had walked from the west {Kerry) and was heading back to Dublin {East).
Later on we caught a cab to Aughrim and on to Clone House for our next overnight stay. We lucked out again with a marvelous accommodation. .Svetlana (our host) had driven us down to town and after dinner, we walked the 3kms back from Aughrim There were other folk there and we had a great chat over a red wine and cheese, Len and Charlene from Edmonton, Canada, some Germans and Americans and some Dubliners. The House and grounds are a work–in-progress and are beautiful and full of history. We did however miss the daffodils. Max the Airedale was a wonderful host!!
Unfortunately there was no sign of deer but I did see a fox at Clone House this morning and horses and rabbits.
As for Clone House. It is a 350 year old house built originally by the Byrnes who fought the English. The current owners are going to restore the stables and out buildings to bring them into the main accommodation options. The gardens are well layed out with a walking path.
Leisure day and a lovely brekkie. We had a walk around Glenmalure including a short walk to see old barracks (1798) . What a lovely village it is. However, I managed to upset the Heinkel scooter guys when I asked if they were the Vesper guys at breakfast.
After we packed, we chatted with Shannon from Texas, USA who had walked from the west {Kerry) and was heading back to Dublin {East).
Later on we caught a cab to Aughrim and on to Clone House for our next overnight stay. We lucked out again with a marvelous accommodation. .Svetlana (our host) had driven us down to town and after dinner, we walked the 3kms back from Aughrim There were other folk there and we had a great chat over a red wine and cheese, Len and Charlene from Edmonton, Canada, some Germans and Americans and some Dubliners. The House and grounds are a work–in-progress and are beautiful and full of history. We did however miss the daffodils. Max the Airedale was a wonderful host!!
Unfortunately there was no sign of deer but I did see a fox at Clone House this morning and horses and rabbits.
As for Clone House. It is a 350 year old house built originally by the Byrnes who fought the English. The current owners are going to restore the stables and out buildings to bring them into the main accommodation options. The gardens are well layed out with a walking path.
June 13 Wednesday - Aughrim to Moyne
We left Clone House after a quick walk around the gardens and taxied out to the walk. We walked about 12 kms into Kyle Farm B&B near Moyne, but it felt more like 20 kms. Even though we started late, still got in at 2.30pm for a welcome drink. It was mostly forest walking and secondary lanes through farmland today. From our B&B we can look out over to the west and Carlow. Again, we were welcomed with wonderful hospitality by our hosts Margaret and Hugh. They have a beautiful farm. Their 3 dogs, Lexie the fox terrier, Watch the border collie, and Buster the Bordeaux Mastiff were a great source of amusement..
During the walk we met and talked to a few locals which was really nice. One farmer had 2 great working border collies who were completely spent after a long day working the sheep.
Margaret was just the best host. Dinner was Homemade Guiness stew with a bottle of red. Then this morning, the biggest breakfast. It was so warm and friendly that we did not leave until 10.30am.
We left Clone House after a quick walk around the gardens and taxied out to the walk. We walked about 12 kms into Kyle Farm B&B near Moyne, but it felt more like 20 kms. Even though we started late, still got in at 2.30pm for a welcome drink. It was mostly forest walking and secondary lanes through farmland today. From our B&B we can look out over to the west and Carlow. Again, we were welcomed with wonderful hospitality by our hosts Margaret and Hugh. They have a beautiful farm. Their 3 dogs, Lexie the fox terrier, Watch the border collie, and Buster the Bordeaux Mastiff were a great source of amusement..
During the walk we met and talked to a few locals which was really nice. One farmer had 2 great working border collies who were completely spent after a long day working the sheep.
Margaret was just the best host. Dinner was Homemade Guiness stew with a bottle of red. Then this morning, the biggest breakfast. It was so warm and friendly that we did not leave until 10.30am.
Their 3 dogs, Lexie the fox terrier, Watch the border collie, and Buster the Bordeaux Mastiff. Such gentle dogs.
June 14 Thursday - Moyne to Tinahely
We said our goodbyes to Kyle Farm B&B and headed off with lots of country lanes and walking through farm lands. We encountered two dead sheep which was a sad sight to have to see. The other sheep seemed to standing around them and saddened
The walk was great with lesser hills, stunning scenery and plenty of sheep, cows and also milkers. We had lunch sitting on a rock overlooking the whole valley. It was unbelievably beautiful.
Lastly there was a long walk into Tinahely on a busy road and into the tiny village, and Madeline’s B&B. We received a great welcome with tea and cake and the lovely Madeline. The B&B is fantastic.
We said our goodbyes to Kyle Farm B&B and headed off with lots of country lanes and walking through farm lands. We encountered two dead sheep which was a sad sight to have to see. The other sheep seemed to standing around them and saddened
The walk was great with lesser hills, stunning scenery and plenty of sheep, cows and also milkers. We had lunch sitting on a rock overlooking the whole valley. It was unbelievably beautiful.
Lastly there was a long walk into Tinahely on a busy road and into the tiny village, and Madeline’s B&B. We received a great welcome with tea and cake and the lovely Madeline. The B&B is fantastic.
June 15 Friday - Tinahely to The Dying Cow Pub
We had decided to break the walk to Clonegal into two parts.
Madeline arranged to pick us up at 2pm at the “Dying Cow” or Tallon’s Pub on the route as we couldn’t book a place to stay in Shillelagh. So this morning, after another great breakfast, we walked sans packs to the Dying Cow, some 9 kms. It was a lovely walk to one of the only pubs actually on the way which was not an overnight stop.
The visit to the Dying Cow was so worth it. We chatted with the owners who have been managing the pub in the same family for over 100 years. After downing a few pints of Guinness, Madeline came and picked us up and brought us back to Tinahely for a 2nd night.
We had decided to break the walk to Clonegal into two parts.
Madeline arranged to pick us up at 2pm at the “Dying Cow” or Tallon’s Pub on the route as we couldn’t book a place to stay in Shillelagh. So this morning, after another great breakfast, we walked sans packs to the Dying Cow, some 9 kms. It was a lovely walk to one of the only pubs actually on the way which was not an overnight stop.
The visit to the Dying Cow was so worth it. We chatted with the owners who have been managing the pub in the same family for over 100 years. After downing a few pints of Guinness, Madeline came and picked us up and brought us back to Tinahely for a 2nd night.
June 16 Saturday - Tinahely to Raheenakit to Clonegal – THE END of the Wicklow Way
Forget the books and the maps. 18.5 kms today from just past the Dying Cow (where Madeline dropped us off) to Clonegal. The track has been rerouted and some additional distances have been added so it was still a long walk with plenty of hills, to our destination in Clonegal. We saw our Danish friends along the way.
The day was mostly forest walking with beautiful views, but the last 5kms into town was a bit tough.
We arrived at Clonegal around 3pm and nothing was open. Finally a pub opened and we had a beer to celebrate and our kind hostess, Sheila from the Carraig B&B, picked us up and brought us back to her lovely home. Dinner was in town to celebrate and was enjoyable but a little expensive for our budget but it had been arranged by Madeline and we wanted the goodwill to flow.
Today at the B&B we also met a fellow Camino pilgrim Kevin Considine. He is walking from his roots in west Ireland to Santiago via the Irish walks (including the Wicklow Way). His 4th visit to Santiago in as many years. We had a great chat.
Forget the books and the maps. 18.5 kms today from just past the Dying Cow (where Madeline dropped us off) to Clonegal. The track has been rerouted and some additional distances have been added so it was still a long walk with plenty of hills, to our destination in Clonegal. We saw our Danish friends along the way.
The day was mostly forest walking with beautiful views, but the last 5kms into town was a bit tough.
We arrived at Clonegal around 3pm and nothing was open. Finally a pub opened and we had a beer to celebrate and our kind hostess, Sheila from the Carraig B&B, picked us up and brought us back to her lovely home. Dinner was in town to celebrate and was enjoyable but a little expensive for our budget but it had been arranged by Madeline and we wanted the goodwill to flow.
Today at the B&B we also met a fellow Camino pilgrim Kevin Considine. He is walking from his roots in west Ireland to Santiago via the Irish walks (including the Wicklow Way). His 4th visit to Santiago in as many years. We had a great chat.
June 17 Sunday- Clonegal to Monemore
We were eagerly awaiting Kathleen picking us up at around 2 o’clock.
We had a great brekkie and conversation. First with Kevin and then with Sheila and Joe Kirwan, our gracious hosts. Finally we said our farewells reluctantly and Joe dropped us off at Huntington Castle (1600’s) and we toured the gardens and took coffee and cake to while away the time. We had a great talk with the O’Briens, a brother and sister and cousin who kept us laughing with their tales of their Irish ancestors. After walking around the Castle and then the village we waited for Kathleen down by the Derry River.
Kathleen arrived and the years melted away (We had first seen Kathleen in Ireland in 1982, when Linda and I were doing our European Adventure. We "found" Linda's relatives on a wild, windy and rainy day, and have since seen some of them in Australia and some of our family have also gone back there). Ripping through the countryside to Monemore we arrived and were greeted by Patrick, Martin and Brenda, Sean, Liam, Murt and Chloe and baby Ellie, then Shamus, and his daughter Martina. Niall and Helen came early and again later. Melissa and her lovely children Keeva and Liam. Love and laughter, a great end to our day.
We were eagerly awaiting Kathleen picking us up at around 2 o’clock.
We had a great brekkie and conversation. First with Kevin and then with Sheila and Joe Kirwan, our gracious hosts. Finally we said our farewells reluctantly and Joe dropped us off at Huntington Castle (1600’s) and we toured the gardens and took coffee and cake to while away the time. We had a great talk with the O’Briens, a brother and sister and cousin who kept us laughing with their tales of their Irish ancestors. After walking around the Castle and then the village we waited for Kathleen down by the Derry River.
Kathleen arrived and the years melted away (We had first seen Kathleen in Ireland in 1982, when Linda and I were doing our European Adventure. We "found" Linda's relatives on a wild, windy and rainy day, and have since seen some of them in Australia and some of our family have also gone back there). Ripping through the countryside to Monemore we arrived and were greeted by Patrick, Martin and Brenda, Sean, Liam, Murt and Chloe and baby Ellie, then Shamus, and his daughter Martina. Niall and Helen came early and again later. Melissa and her lovely children Keeva and Liam. Love and laughter, a great end to our day.
Here is a photo from our 1982 trip and arriving at the farmhouse which has now been lovingly renovated.
June 18 and 19 Monday and Tuesday - Monemore
A great day was had with the family. Just leisurely talking and laughing with Brenda and Martin and Kathleen and Patrick. We got to do the laundry, visited St Lazerin’s in Old Leighlin and the old Church of Ireland. We also visited the Community Hall where Kathleen has been involved for a good many years as Treasurer
.
Highlights of the day – the house where Grandad was born, and meeting Alice, Bridie and Clare and Jim and Paddy. Dear Patrick engages us in conversation now and showed us his pictures from his days spent at the care centre Beam and when he worked at the local nursery. Kathleen cooked us a lovely dinner of the traditional bacon and cabbage, yum.
A nice surprise after dinner on our last night, Alice, Bridie, Colette, Jim and Paddy Howard came to meet us. It was so good to meet them. The next day we were resting with everyone and a trip to the Arboretum in Leighlinbridge, a great place. and a super nursery and lifestyle shop. We had lunch with Kathleen, Brenda and her grandson Liam.
Back home, we sorted through some more photos. Great to see the Cummins kids growing up in Monemore, and did not realise there were 2 sisters who stayed with Jim; Alice and Sarah. Jim was 50 when he married Mary Lacy.
In the afternoon we met Adrian and his daughter Mia, and Sophie, Mary Howard’s grandchildren.
A great day was had with the family. Just leisurely talking and laughing with Brenda and Martin and Kathleen and Patrick. We got to do the laundry, visited St Lazerin’s in Old Leighlin and the old Church of Ireland. We also visited the Community Hall where Kathleen has been involved for a good many years as Treasurer
.
Highlights of the day – the house where Grandad was born, and meeting Alice, Bridie and Clare and Jim and Paddy. Dear Patrick engages us in conversation now and showed us his pictures from his days spent at the care centre Beam and when he worked at the local nursery. Kathleen cooked us a lovely dinner of the traditional bacon and cabbage, yum.
A nice surprise after dinner on our last night, Alice, Bridie, Colette, Jim and Paddy Howard came to meet us. It was so good to meet them. The next day we were resting with everyone and a trip to the Arboretum in Leighlinbridge, a great place. and a super nursery and lifestyle shop. We had lunch with Kathleen, Brenda and her grandson Liam.
Back home, we sorted through some more photos. Great to see the Cummins kids growing up in Monemore, and did not realise there were 2 sisters who stayed with Jim; Alice and Sarah. Jim was 50 when he married Mary Lacy.
In the afternoon we met Adrian and his daughter Mia, and Sophie, Mary Howard’s grandchildren.
South Leinster Way
June 20 Wednesday - Monemore to Borris to Graignamanagh
A lazy goodbye and Kathleen drove us into Borris to start our walking. So delighted to have a flat 13 km walk along the Barrow into Graignamanagh. We wished we had seen more wildlife, but did see a beautiful swan family, cob and pen with 5 cygnets and two blue herons. No otters which was sad.
Had a nice picnic just before the last lock of the day. The lock system was great to look at and we met a narrow boat plying up the Barrow. Had a lively conversation with local fishermen, one of which helped us out with some insect repellent, as the flies were very persistent.
Before we knew it we were in Graignamanagh and into our great accommodation at the Waterside Apartments (and old mill/warehouse).
A lazy goodbye and Kathleen drove us into Borris to start our walking. So delighted to have a flat 13 km walk along the Barrow into Graignamanagh. We wished we had seen more wildlife, but did see a beautiful swan family, cob and pen with 5 cygnets and two blue herons. No otters which was sad.
Had a nice picnic just before the last lock of the day. The lock system was great to look at and we met a narrow boat plying up the Barrow. Had a lively conversation with local fishermen, one of which helped us out with some insect repellent, as the flies were very persistent.
Before we knew it we were in Graignamanagh and into our great accommodation at the Waterside Apartments (and old mill/warehouse).
June 21 Thursday - Graignamanagh to Inistioge
Woke up this morning to another clear blue sky, and after a great breakfast at the Waterside Apartments B&B we left late (10:30) and headed out.
It was a sunny morning which turned cool as we departed. We had to get directions a couple of times to get on the track.. Road works finally stopped our forward momentum and the local farmer who was watching the works came over and told us to go through his paddocks. “Just go under that string and then up the paddock and then under the fence and keep heading up and across to the gate. When you get over that take the track up. You will then come out on the track. So off we went, over a couple of paddocks and finally I looked back to see that Linda had adopted some beautiful freesian bully calves who were following her up the field. Finally after climbing a gate or two or three, we found the path just as described.
Once on the way we climbed gradually up Brandin Hill to 515m but stopped a bit short of that and worked around the hill to almost the other side. After a while walking through forests and zig-zagging up and down and up and down, we finally came out of the forest. and some 18kms later into Inistioge. There were more road works with dust, tractors, big trucks etc just before we got into town.. We got by them with the usual chatting and laughing.
The River Nore flows through Inistioge and walking into town after crossing the bridge we first stopped for a tea and coffee and at a little bookshop – The Book Café. Then we had to wrangle our way past Teddy the town terrorist Kelpie who took an immediate dislike to me, a first!! We met John O’Donnell in the local pub and made ourselves known. He was the man our good friends, Jo and Stewart said to say hello to. Inistioge is a beautiful village and the locals were very busying planting flowers and sprucing things up for the Tidy Town competition.
The Woodstock Arms was our B&B. A great place to stay with wonderful hospitality.
Woke up this morning to another clear blue sky, and after a great breakfast at the Waterside Apartments B&B we left late (10:30) and headed out.
It was a sunny morning which turned cool as we departed. We had to get directions a couple of times to get on the track.. Road works finally stopped our forward momentum and the local farmer who was watching the works came over and told us to go through his paddocks. “Just go under that string and then up the paddock and then under the fence and keep heading up and across to the gate. When you get over that take the track up. You will then come out on the track. So off we went, over a couple of paddocks and finally I looked back to see that Linda had adopted some beautiful freesian bully calves who were following her up the field. Finally after climbing a gate or two or three, we found the path just as described.
Once on the way we climbed gradually up Brandin Hill to 515m but stopped a bit short of that and worked around the hill to almost the other side. After a while walking through forests and zig-zagging up and down and up and down, we finally came out of the forest. and some 18kms later into Inistioge. There were more road works with dust, tractors, big trucks etc just before we got into town.. We got by them with the usual chatting and laughing.
The River Nore flows through Inistioge and walking into town after crossing the bridge we first stopped for a tea and coffee and at a little bookshop – The Book Café. Then we had to wrangle our way past Teddy the town terrorist Kelpie who took an immediate dislike to me, a first!! We met John O’Donnell in the local pub and made ourselves known. He was the man our good friends, Jo and Stewart said to say hello to. Inistioge is a beautiful village and the locals were very busying planting flowers and sprucing things up for the Tidy Town competition.
The Woodstock Arms was our B&B. A great place to stay with wonderful hospitality.
June 22 Friday - Inistioge to Mullinavat
Annette from the Woodstock Arms arranged for the town hackney, a lovely lady named Peggy, to pick us up and drop us at Glenpipe, just under halfway to our next stop in Mullinavat, a nice enough walk and still about 15kms.
It was rather uneventful and a pleasant walk, although I would not have liked to walk into the first forest if it had been raining. As it was we walked gingerly over the dried (but still wet in places) bog. Deep with old footprints.
Only saw the usual suspects today - horses, cows etc and again, nothing in between the towns.
We thought we had lost the path after we failed to pick up our walking man at a forest intersection, but it was there sitting among the overgrown grasses and almost invisible.
Eventually we found we were on the right path to The Rising Sun in Mullinavat, and thoroughly enjoyed our stay. Very charming accommodation.
Annette from the Woodstock Arms arranged for the town hackney, a lovely lady named Peggy, to pick us up and drop us at Glenpipe, just under halfway to our next stop in Mullinavat, a nice enough walk and still about 15kms.
It was rather uneventful and a pleasant walk, although I would not have liked to walk into the first forest if it had been raining. As it was we walked gingerly over the dried (but still wet in places) bog. Deep with old footprints.
Only saw the usual suspects today - horses, cows etc and again, nothing in between the towns.
We thought we had lost the path after we failed to pick up our walking man at a forest intersection, but it was there sitting among the overgrown grasses and almost invisible.
Eventually we found we were on the right path to The Rising Sun in Mullinavat, and thoroughly enjoyed our stay. Very charming accommodation.
June 23 Saturday - (Someone’s birthday) - Mullinavat to Carrick on Suir
Today it was my 66th birthday and we had a Greek Paddy taxi driver take us to Piltown to begin our walk to Carrick on Suir.
The scenery here is not so manicured and road walking through farmland was the order of the day, until close to town and we crossed a little rivulet into the area of town we dubbed the heights. On our way in we bought some local strawberries to keep us going. As we walked past a pub we heard a roar and found out that Australia lost the Landsdowne Cup. We found the Carraig Hotel on Main Street and had a nice lunch after getting our room on the top floor – no lift. It was a lovely room and staff are great. I had a good day for my birthday. Very sunny. and got our laundry organised!
We have now finished the South Leinster and whilst we missed the Clonegal to Borris section and a bit of road walking out of some of the towns we have clocked over 200kms. Lyn is going well as am I and our feet are happy, despite the packs we carry to keep enough water and food between stops. Where the Wicklow was remote and mountainous the South Leinster was lower, with rolling hills and nothing above 400m. There was also a lot more road walking.
As for road walking, it is ok but a bit dangerous and you don't see much over the hedge rows (which were overgrown due to the late winter and the hot onslaught of spring/summer). You also find that loo stops are near impossible.
The countryside is amazing and so productive.
Today it was my 66th birthday and we had a Greek Paddy taxi driver take us to Piltown to begin our walk to Carrick on Suir.
The scenery here is not so manicured and road walking through farmland was the order of the day, until close to town and we crossed a little rivulet into the area of town we dubbed the heights. On our way in we bought some local strawberries to keep us going. As we walked past a pub we heard a roar and found out that Australia lost the Landsdowne Cup. We found the Carraig Hotel on Main Street and had a nice lunch after getting our room on the top floor – no lift. It was a lovely room and staff are great. I had a good day for my birthday. Very sunny. and got our laundry organised!
We have now finished the South Leinster and whilst we missed the Clonegal to Borris section and a bit of road walking out of some of the towns we have clocked over 200kms. Lyn is going well as am I and our feet are happy, despite the packs we carry to keep enough water and food between stops. Where the Wicklow was remote and mountainous the South Leinster was lower, with rolling hills and nothing above 400m. There was also a lot more road walking.
As for road walking, it is ok but a bit dangerous and you don't see much over the hedge rows (which were overgrown due to the late winter and the hot onslaught of spring/summer). You also find that loo stops are near impossible.
The countryside is amazing and so productive.
June 24 Sunday - Carrick on Suir
Lazy day. Explored Ormond Castle (House), which is the wonderfully preserved Tudor House of “Black Tom” – Thomas Butler, 10th Earl of Ormond. Ormond castle is a combination of the old castle started in the 1300's and an Elizabethan front house added in the 1400's to the 1500s.
Walked around town and found a nice coffee shop.Bought some supplies for tomorrow. Early dinner and night.
Lazy day. Explored Ormond Castle (House), which is the wonderfully preserved Tudor House of “Black Tom” – Thomas Butler, 10th Earl of Ormond. Ormond castle is a combination of the old castle started in the 1300's and an Elizabethan front house added in the 1400's to the 1500s.
Walked around town and found a nice coffee shop.Bought some supplies for tomorrow. Early dinner and night.
East Munster Way
June 25 Monday - Carrick on Suir to Kilsheelan
The start of the Munster Way.
It was a long hot walk (around 15kms) beside the beautiful River Suir (Sure). Swans, herons and ducks but no otter. There were plenty of ruins to sight along the way. Found our lodgings Nagle’s B&B and enjoyed a beer with a local man named Mick Commins, in his eighties and very lively. (Drank his Guinness with a shot of whisky)!! We also met a fellow Aussie, Danny Slattery. Great bloke and enjoyed his company very much.
The start of the Munster Way.
It was a long hot walk (around 15kms) beside the beautiful River Suir (Sure). Swans, herons and ducks but no otter. There were plenty of ruins to sight along the way. Found our lodgings Nagle’s B&B and enjoyed a beer with a local man named Mick Commins, in his eighties and very lively. (Drank his Guinness with a shot of whisky)!! We also met a fellow Aussie, Danny Slattery. Great bloke and enjoyed his company very much.
June 26 Tuesday - Kilsheelan to Clonmel
Today was a nice easy 10km walk into Clonmel. Staying in Hearn’s Hotel. It is a nice town with a lot of history. Main Guard Building 1675, with Butler family involvement.
Sadly no otters seen, although locals assured us they are definitely present. Hearn’s a bit disappointing and needs a bit of work. But it was clean and good shower though, so suited us. The staff very friendly and obliging.
Tierney's pub and museum in Clonmel was just amazing and great food as well.
Today was a nice easy 10km walk into Clonmel. Staying in Hearn’s Hotel. It is a nice town with a lot of history. Main Guard Building 1675, with Butler family involvement.
Sadly no otters seen, although locals assured us they are definitely present. Hearn’s a bit disappointing and needs a bit of work. But it was clean and good shower though, so suited us. The staff very friendly and obliging.
Tierney's pub and museum in Clonmel was just amazing and great food as well.
Tierneys pub and museum
June 27 Wednesday - Clonmel to Killarney
Bus travel to Killarney today. All organised and early for bus. Nice journey to Cork and then on to Killarney. Very busy here and will get busier so our host says. Nice B&B recommended by Martin. We saw the jaunty carts. and went to the movies to see Jurassic World.
Bus travel to Killarney today. All organised and early for bus. Nice journey to Cork and then on to Killarney. Very busy here and will get busier so our host says. Nice B&B recommended by Martin. We saw the jaunty carts. and went to the movies to see Jurassic World.
June 28 Thursday - Killarney
A lovely day in Killarney was spent, walking through the Killarney National Park and enjoying Killarney House and gardens and the lovely thatched Dienagh Lodge and river walk,
Visited Ross Castle and Lough Leane. and then back for a rest , Later we took a pleasant walk around Killarney CBD and saw some nice Skellig keepsakes.
It is pretty warm in Ireland and yes the local news is warning people to wear sunscreen, stay safe in the water, drink plenty of fluids.....
All I can say is this -
1. We always wear sunscreen. It is an Australian moisturising cream.
2. We went for a walk this morning through the Killarney Gardens and down to the lake. While cooling our feet in a running stream, Linda had a real shock when she dropped her sock in the river, while trying to put it back on. Thankfully we saved the sock. (Have you heard the saying," like a duck with a gun".
3. I could not drink anymore Guinness if I tried.
Now Linda and I are lying on the grass at the B&B and looking up to the sky. Not a cloud and barely a zephyr of a breeze.
On a serious note:
The farmers are starting to worry about growing enough feed for the winter and water rationing is starting to kick in.
We did ask a local when walking along the river Suir; we thought it was lovely and running well, but he said it was about 2 to 3 feet lower than usual. So it is starting to bite. Still it is no worse than what our farmers deal with every day of every year.
A lovely day in Killarney was spent, walking through the Killarney National Park and enjoying Killarney House and gardens and the lovely thatched Dienagh Lodge and river walk,
Visited Ross Castle and Lough Leane. and then back for a rest , Later we took a pleasant walk around Killarney CBD and saw some nice Skellig keepsakes.
It is pretty warm in Ireland and yes the local news is warning people to wear sunscreen, stay safe in the water, drink plenty of fluids.....
All I can say is this -
1. We always wear sunscreen. It is an Australian moisturising cream.
2. We went for a walk this morning through the Killarney Gardens and down to the lake. While cooling our feet in a running stream, Linda had a real shock when she dropped her sock in the river, while trying to put it back on. Thankfully we saved the sock. (Have you heard the saying," like a duck with a gun".
3. I could not drink anymore Guinness if I tried.
Now Linda and I are lying on the grass at the B&B and looking up to the sky. Not a cloud and barely a zephyr of a breeze.
On a serious note:
The farmers are starting to worry about growing enough feed for the winter and water rationing is starting to kick in.
We did ask a local when walking along the river Suir; we thought it was lovely and running well, but he said it was about 2 to 3 feet lower than usual. So it is starting to bite. Still it is no worse than what our farmers deal with every day of every year.
June 29 Friday - Killarney to Cahersiveen
We had a fast bus trip to Cahersiveen and had lunch at a tiny old bar in the main street. We found out our B&B was still a few kms out of town and on the road to the ferry. It was not too long a walk out of town to our beautiful B&B, The Sea Breeze with hosts Ailish and Tom. The scenery on the coast is stunning. Tomorrow, we are hoping to get a trip to either, land on Skellig Michael or voyage around it. Early start at 7am; Tom will take us down to Portmagee. Looking forward to seeing the puffins.
We had a fast bus trip to Cahersiveen and had lunch at a tiny old bar in the main street. We found out our B&B was still a few kms out of town and on the road to the ferry. It was not too long a walk out of town to our beautiful B&B, The Sea Breeze with hosts Ailish and Tom. The scenery on the coast is stunning. Tomorrow, we are hoping to get a trip to either, land on Skellig Michael or voyage around it. Early start at 7am; Tom will take us down to Portmagee. Looking forward to seeing the puffins.
June 30 Saturday - Portmagee, Skelligs and Valentia Island
Tom dropped us off at the small boats in Portmagee. The boats that landed on Skellig Island are booked out 6 months ahead. However we may have got on if vacancies arose as the time went past 8am. We looked at the climb and felt that we may have concerns with the height, lack of railings and the overall exposure. In any event we settled for the on boat experience which was fantastic - a 2 ½ hour trip around the Islands. We did get to go round each Island and the birds and scenery were fantastic. The gannet rookery on little Skellig is the 2nd largest in the world. The largest is in Scotland. The noise as we got closer was loud and the air was alive with birds. We saw puffins in the wild, doing their thing. - what an absolute little darling bird. They made our day.
After we got back, we walked across the 1970 bridge to Valentia Island, where Ailish lived before she married Tom. We visited the Skellig Experience Centre and had lunch/dinner and then walked the 17kms back to Knightstown via Chapeltown and along the rocky beach. Caught the car ferry back to the mainland (a 10 minute voyage) and walked home to B&B. A long, happy day. Clouds rolling over Valentia were amazing!! So we did do a stage of the Kerry Way.
Tom dropped us off at the small boats in Portmagee. The boats that landed on Skellig Island are booked out 6 months ahead. However we may have got on if vacancies arose as the time went past 8am. We looked at the climb and felt that we may have concerns with the height, lack of railings and the overall exposure. In any event we settled for the on boat experience which was fantastic - a 2 ½ hour trip around the Islands. We did get to go round each Island and the birds and scenery were fantastic. The gannet rookery on little Skellig is the 2nd largest in the world. The largest is in Scotland. The noise as we got closer was loud and the air was alive with birds. We saw puffins in the wild, doing their thing. - what an absolute little darling bird. They made our day.
After we got back, we walked across the 1970 bridge to Valentia Island, where Ailish lived before she married Tom. We visited the Skellig Experience Centre and had lunch/dinner and then walked the 17kms back to Knightstown via Chapeltown and along the rocky beach. Caught the car ferry back to the mainland (a 10 minute voyage) and walked home to B&B. A long, happy day. Clouds rolling over Valentia were amazing!! So we did do a stage of the Kerry Way.
Little Skellig
Portmagee on the left and Valentia Island on the right. When the bridge opened in 1970, the ferry boat that was rowed over the passage was discontinued. The first ferryboat was built by Dan O'Connor in the 1900's.
July 1 Sunday - Cahersiveen
Today we walked around the sights of the town. The Barracks of the RIC, Ballybarbery Castle and two round forts (one called Cahergal) which were ancient and amazing. We covered around 17kms and also enjoyed a very tasty lunch at Eva’s B&B and restaurant in Cahersiveen. Crab sandwiches for Linda and I had the Ribs.
Today we walked around the sights of the town. The Barracks of the RIC, Ballybarbery Castle and two round forts (one called Cahergal) which were ancient and amazing. We covered around 17kms and also enjoyed a very tasty lunch at Eva’s B&B and restaurant in Cahersiveen. Crab sandwiches for Linda and I had the Ribs.
July 2 Monday - Cahersiveen to Killarney
We said farewell to Tom and Ailish and Ailish drove us to town for the bus. We soon arrived in Killarney and booked back in to The Gardens and then went into town to the train station only to find we had to book online as the ticketing machines work on a today only basis and we wanted tickets for Wednesday. Stranger than fiction, we should run into Jamie Brooking and little Jen, as he introduced her, at the station. Walked town and shopped, then back to B&B, shower and lounging around.
We said farewell to Tom and Ailish and Ailish drove us to town for the bus. We soon arrived in Killarney and booked back in to The Gardens and then went into town to the train station only to find we had to book online as the ticketing machines work on a today only basis and we wanted tickets for Wednesday. Stranger than fiction, we should run into Jamie Brooking and little Jen, as he introduced her, at the station. Walked town and shopped, then back to B&B, shower and lounging around.
July 3 Tuesday - Killarney
Walked to Muckross House and Gardens and enjoyed morning tea and a walk around the gardens.
We took a jaunty cart ride with Patrick the driver and “Billy” our horse power. Toured near the lake and up to Torc Falls. Beautiful scenery. Spotted a red deer from a distance. No red squirrels though. Back into town on the Red Bus and found Quinlan’s Fish Shop and had a wonderful seafood lunch of garlic crab claws and fresh shrimp sandwiches and salad and chips. Back to B&B for a rest.
Walked to Muckross House and Gardens and enjoyed morning tea and a walk around the gardens.
We took a jaunty cart ride with Patrick the driver and “Billy” our horse power. Toured near the lake and up to Torc Falls. Beautiful scenery. Spotted a red deer from a distance. No red squirrels though. Back into town on the Red Bus and found Quinlan’s Fish Shop and had a wonderful seafood lunch of garlic crab claws and fresh shrimp sandwiches and salad and chips. Back to B&B for a rest.
July 4 Wednesday - Killarney to Dublin
Slow start. Picked up train tickets with no problem. Waited until check-out time to leave The Gardens. Train travel very comfortable into Dublin, Heuston Station, on time and took bus into CBD to our B&B, The Celtic Lodge in Talbot Street .Got an extra night. Light dinner early to bed. Seagulls laughing all the way.
First a question . If you are driving a car but walking around special areas (castles, churches, bridges, farms, spectacular early civilizations etc.) are you still a traveler or are you now a tourist? I am thinking even early pilgrims used donkeys and early caravans drawn by horses and stopped at special sites.
Slow start. Picked up train tickets with no problem. Waited until check-out time to leave The Gardens. Train travel very comfortable into Dublin, Heuston Station, on time and took bus into CBD to our B&B, The Celtic Lodge in Talbot Street .Got an extra night. Light dinner early to bed. Seagulls laughing all the way.
First a question . If you are driving a car but walking around special areas (castles, churches, bridges, farms, spectacular early civilizations etc.) are you still a traveler or are you now a tourist? I am thinking even early pilgrims used donkeys and early caravans drawn by horses and stopped at special sites.
July 5 and 6 Thursday and Friday spent back in Dublin before we picked up the car. The story continues on " Ireland Summer of 2018 - Part 2 - Driving".